Lying at the foot of the San Pedro volcano, this little bohemian town is nestled between verdant mountains and the enchanting Lake Atitlan in Western Guatemala. Its ethereal location makes it a popular destination for backpackers, culture seekers and Spanish students.

San Pedro La Laguna

Mayan towns dot the majestic lake, but humble San Pedro stands out for its eclectic assortment of people – a growing ex-pat community, neo-hippies, and friendly locals in traditional garb that mix and mingle in one cohesive population.

Walking around San Pedro is the best way to explore its nooks and crannies and take in all the vivid traditional Mayan colors. The terraced arrangement of the town mean there are a lot of hills to climb so expect burning calf muscles. Even though it is modest in size, the town’s layout is confusing. Its many twisting tiny dirt roads almost ensure you will get lost. Don’t worry, locals are very helpful and will send you in the right direction.

Keep in mind, there are no real addresses. Locals describe locations by landmarks. A good rule of thumb: uphill leads to the market and the center of town, downhill is towards the lake and most of the hotels and restaurants. When you first arrive you will most likely be near the main Panajachel dock (referred to as ‘Pana’ by the locals). Taking a left at the corner will lead you to a large selection of hotels, cafés, and restaurants such as D’noz, Allegre Pub, Café Luna Azul, Casa Elena.

Another area of ‘downtown’ where most Spanish schools and restaurants, including the Buddha, El Barrio, Jarachick and Hotel Ti’kaaj are can be reached by walking up the road directly in front of Casa Elena. Follow that through until you reach El Otro Lado bar. Make a left at the bar. This will lead to a narrow pathway with many food options and the famous San Pedro ‘solar pools’. They aren’t really pools, more like bathtubs in the ground heated by black tubes. Late afternoon is the best time to soak. Let them know at least an hour before so they can prepare it. The price is 25Q or $3 for however long you can take the heat.

If you get tired of walking, the recent addition of ‘tuk-tuks’, a scooter with a covered bench, will carry you to your destination.

San Pedro is one of the cheapest places in the world to learn to speak Spanish. Because of this quality of instruction varies. The San Pedro Spanish School is highly recommended. It is certainly one of the more beautiful schools to study, with its small thatched lakeside cabanas to practice conversation. One week (20 hours) of private lessons will cost roughly $50 dollars. Also, it is possible to live at a home stay in conjunction with your studies. This is optimal for a total immersion. The school will place you with a family nearby. For around $100 dollars a week this includes, Spanish lessons, room, and board.

Out of Town

Many attractions draw visitors to San Pedro each year besides the Spanish schools. Explore the lake by renting a kayak or canoe. A rental shop sits beside the Santiago dock and costs $1 an hour. Or hike up the San Pedro volcano. The journey takes roughly 4 hours. Hire a guide ($5) by visiting one of the tour agencies across from Café Tzutujil, or by word of mouth. Also, it is possible to rent horses to shorten the journey. Note: it is essential to hire a guide, as there have been many reported robberies at the base of the volcano.

You can also visit the adjoining villages by taking a launcha (speedboat) from the main dock. They run every half hour until 6pm. The cost are $1 - $3 each way, depending on where you are going.

Panajachel is a great destination to buy hand-made crafts and clothes. Visit the steady line of street vendors that frame Calle Santander. The town has become a center for commerce and trade and is a jumping off point for all other towns. Over the years the town has become overrun with tourists, but it still has its charm. There are many hotels with stunning gardens, nightspots, and wonderful restaurants, most off Calle Santander. Depending on how you travel to San Pedro you may have to stop over in Pana. It is worth spending the night and exploring.

San Marcos is the spiritual epicenter of all the towns. There are no paved roads, only small footpaths with handmade signs to guide the way. Many courses and treatments are offered in yoga, reiki, and massage. An array of tranquil hotels, organic restaurants and secluded areas to meditate are in the area. Visit Moonfish to experience their amazing vegetarian breakfast. They make salads from their own garden. If you decide to spend a night, Aacalaax is built into the hillside and decorated with recycled glass. It can be reached by heading straight up on the road from the dock and following signs.

Lake Atitlan has its own history and mythologies. The lake was created by the collapse of a volcanic caldera, and provides unique underwater scenery for anyone interested in learning to dive. Santa Cruz La Laguna has the majority of dive shops and is a few towns over. It can be reached by launcha ($2 one way).

Swimming in the lake is refreshing, and on hot days, is sometimes is a necessity. Make sure to swim upstream from the ladies washing clothes, otherwise you will get a mouthful of soap.

The climate around the lake is generally mild yearlong. The rainy season is between May and October, but even then the sun comes out at least part of the day. If you want to see the town in full swing, visit during Easter week. It’s like spring break.