| Galapagos Islands Live Up to the Hype |
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| By Rachel Vigoda | |||||
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No destination is more deserving of a spot on your “‘Things To Do Before I Die”’ list than the Galapagos Islands. An archipelago in the Pacific Ocean about 400 miles off the coast of Ecuador, the volcanic islands and islets that make up the Galapagos truly live up to the hype. Of course, it’s where Charles Darwin first got an inkling that animals adapt to their environments. It’s also home to the tortoise, Lonesome George, the last known member of his subspecies, who has made his home there for over 100 years; as well as sea lion pups who want nothing more than to play an underwater game of “chicken” with you.
The weather is balmy, the water is crystal-clear and the beaches are made covered in red, white or black sand. The diversity of wildlife is unparalleled and also the main draw for explorers: marine iguanas, sea lions, frigates, penguins, white-tipped and hammerhead sharks, clown fish, lava lizards, sea turtles, giant tortoises, blue-footed boobies, Sally Lightfoot crabs, dolphins, humpback whales, pelicans and more abound. Many of the creatures are found only on the islands, or even on one island in particular. Puerto Ayora, on the island of Santa Cruz and right off of Baltra Island, is the largest town in the Galapagos and a good base if you opt not to cruise. Here you’ll find the Charles Darwin Research Station, where you can tour the tortoise-breeding center and pay a visit to Lonesome George. Other attractions on Santa Cruz that are easily accessible from Puerto Ayora include: volcanic peaks to hike, two huge craters, a tortoise reserve and gorgeous beaches. If you want to leave Puerto Ayora and see other islands; most can only be visited with a guide licensed by the Galapagos National Park Service in tow. Several tour companies arrange day trips from Puerto Ayora. Try Zenith Travel, Sangay Touring or Metropolitan Touring. From San Cristobal, you can take a comprehensive archipelago tour with Ecoventura. Touring the Islands There are two ways to tour the Galapagos: by land or by sea. Visitors can stay on one island and take day trips to other islands, or can stay on a boat. The second option allows for a more comprehensive itinerary seeing as the boat travels overnight to the next island while you sleep. Dramamine is recommended. Choosing a boat can be daunting. By far the best place to start is with a copy of Barry Boyce’s A Traveler’s Guide to the Galapagos Islands. The book explains what to look for in a boat, from the type of vessel to the type of guide, and lists the pros and cons of most boats that travel through the Galapagos. Having firm travel dates will help narrow down which boat to pick. Also, knowing which islands you want to visit will help limit your options – but since all of the islands the boats stop at are worth a look, it’s not the most advantageous way to pick.
Whichever way you tour, if you forget to pack everything else at least have full bottles of insect repellent and sunscreen. Your suitcase should also include a camera, bathing suits, comfortable walking shoes, shoes that can get wet (such as Tevas or Keens), first aid cream or spray, a wetsuit (especially June through November, when the water is cold) and a hat to block the equatorial sun.
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Many travelers include the Galapagos as part of a multi-stop South American trip, but keep in mind that you’ll spend at least half a day just getting there from Ecuador (all flights to the Galapagos go through Ecuador), and you’ll want at least four full days to explore.
Über-adventurous travelers recommend flying to Baltra Island, where trips usually commence, and trying to get a berth on an under-booked boat. It’s a cheaper way to go, and a huge gamble: it might take days, or even weeks, of hanging out on Baltra (an Ecuadorian naval base outside the boundaries of Galapagos National Park – not really the place to be) before an available space is found.