While almost all of Europe is friendlier terrain for cyclists than the United States, there's one route that is the hands-down best - the paved, mostly flat and winding cycle path that parallels the long, meandering Mosel River in western Germany.

Imagine riding for a week past vineyards stretching up steep mountainsides on both banks of this slow-moving river. Picture yourself pedaling through sun-drenched medieval-looking towns of half-timbered houses and past Romanesque churches of intricate architecture. Glance up from your handlebars to see a castle perched high overhead and, as you turn the corner, listen to cheery townspeople and tourists enjoying the local wine, beer and sausages at outdoor tables around a fountain in the town square.

The Mosel River begins in a mountain range in France (where it's called the Moselle) and runs northward near the border with Luxembourg until it flows into the larger Rhine. More than two centuries ago ancient Rome sent its armies north over the Alps to this lovely forested and watered region, and tried to push beyond. The "Vandals" kept them from settling for long north of the Mosel, and thus the beautiful river towns you'll be cycling through became Roman frontier encampments, then settlements, and finally the largest evolved into true Roman towns with public baths, villas, roads, bridges, theaters, and of course the ubiquitous Roman vineyards - the descendents of which line the riverbanks today.

A bike tour is a great way to experience this historic region. Austin-Lehman Adventures (www.austinlehman.com, 800-575-1540) offers riders choices of routes between 122 and 200 miles stretched over a week-long trip. The 200 mile trip starts at the historic town of Trier, Germany's "oldest city."  Founded in 16 BC by Emperor Augustus, Trier is known for housing the most impressive Roman construction north of the Alps. Pedal or walk in one direction in this fascinating town and you'll come upon an amphitheater where 25,000 Romans and Germans watched bloody gladiatorial contests. Make a U-turn and you'll pass the huge 11^th century Cathedral, then enter a Renaissance market area full of bustle and bratwursts. At Brückenstrasse 10, Karl Marx's birthplace has been turned into a museum. And don't miss the Palastgarten (Palace Gardens), full of gardens and ponds, besides the 17^th century Kurfurstliches Palais (Electoral Palace), open daily with free admission.

The highlight of the town is the oldest remaining Roman defensive structure in Germany, the Porta Nigra (Black Gate), a 118 foot long gate dating back to about 180AD. It later became a church and was accompanied by a monastery called Simeonstift, which today houses a museum.

The tour sets aside two days in Trier, allowing a visitor to truly explore its history, not to mention the local delicacies. Then comes an enjoyable river ride through picturesque Trittenheim to Neumagen, a fascinating town of Roman ruins and statues and reconstructed villas. At the height of the Roman Empire a massive fortification of two enormous gates and fourteen towers existed here, though there are no remnants of the structure.

A knowledgeable, enthusiastic guide for the walking tour of town made the statues come alive as he told the human stories behind them.  What a transition to leap into the saddle for more miles of riverside cycling, then smack into the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.  At least that it was it felt like to stroll through the calendar-pretty and oh-so-seemingly-German town of Bernkastel, with its pointed-roof half-timbered houses ("half-timbered" refers to the use of only half a hardwood tree log, like oak, that is still strong enough  to support a house or building). The cheerful market square is four-hundred years old and features a Renaissance town hall with a façade dating back to 1608. Nearby, the Spitzhäuschen (the Pointed House), built in 1416, is an example of a vintner's house. Above the town, Landshut Castle looms over the wine groves stretching up the steep hills.

When you've had your fill of history, a visit to the town's Vinothek in the cellars of the St. Nikolaus Hospital is a good way to unwind. Over 130 bottles from around the Mosel, Saar and Ruwer are here and a number will be open for tasting.

I didn't think any town could surpass Bernkastel in visual delight, but the remarkable and busy burg of Cochem - with its huge and lofty castle and even larger market area of flowers and fountains - takes the prize.  It was founded in 1332, the town hall was finished in 1620, the whole place was sacked and burned by the French in 1689... and today it couldn't look any more peaceful or pretty. Cochem's resplendent Reichsburg Castle is visible for miles and illuminated at night.

On a pleasant break from the saddle, our small group hiked for maybe a mile through a cool and green side valley of trees, when suddenly the massive medieval wonder of multiple tall, slender turrets called the Burg Eltz Castle came into view. Burg Eltz Castle dates back to the 12^th century and has been in the same family for 33 generations. Tours of the castle and the treasure vault are available

The trip ends in the city of Coblence (Koblenz) where the Mosel meets the Rhine river. This ancient city, over 2,000 years old, is full of history. St. Castor's Church, founded in the year 836 AD, is the oldest church in Koblenz, with its magnificent towers, beautiful flowers and fountain where Napoleon used to let his horses drink. Opened in 1992, the Ludwig Museum is devoted to contemporary art post World War Two, with a special emphasis on neighboring France. For a stroll through Germany's history, take the route through the town from "Florinsmarkt" (St Florin's Market) to "Münzplatz (Old Mint Square) and "Jesuitenplatz" (Jesuits' Square).