When you close your eyes and think of Ireland, the image your mind evokes is County Kerry, whether you know it or not. County Kerry is the quintessential Ireland, an absolutely idyllic and unspoiled destination with its largest city home to only 20,000 people.

The Drive to Killarney

The way to truly appreciate the beauty and flavor of rural Ireland is by driving along winding, narrow roads lined with medieval stone walls. Country Kerry is mile upon mile of—you guessed it—rolling green hills and fields of bright yellow rapeseed flowers (allergy sufferers beware), interspersed with the requisite herds of unassuming and sweet-looking lamb.

Arriving at Shannon Airport gives you two options, but either way you will need a car. Rent an automatic to ease the transition to driving on the left side – it’s hard enough without having to shift gears with your opposite hand. If you’re arriving from the Northeast (Limerick), you’ll take the N18, N20 then N21 through Adare, Newcastlewest, Abbeyfeale and Castleisland. This waterless route provides breathtaking scenery, including taking you through the town of Adare, Co. Limerick, which is touted as one of the prettiest villages in all of Ireland.

If you don’t mind backtracking a bit, the other, highly-recommended option is to first drive north to see the remarkable Cliffs of Moher in Co. Clare, which run about 5 miles in length and loom 600 feet over the Atlantic Ocean. Then the smartest and quickest route is to take the Tarbert Ferry in Killimer, Co. Clare. Not only will you arrive in County Kerry in less than 30 minutes, but this mini voyage saves you nearly 100 miles. Additionally, the ferry ride is a very welcome reprieve from Co. Clare’s rugged (and sometimes frightfully narrow) roads, and as well as a great photo op.

Once arriving in Tarbert, you’re less than 50 miles from Killarney. (Note: 50 miles in Ireland isn’t the same as 50 miles in the U.S. due to a lack of highways.) If you really want to appreciate the countryside, anticipate losing ample time due to repeatedly getting lost and the slower roads. Continuing on N69, a secondary route, you will travel through the towns of Listowel and Tralee. The largest city in Co. Kerry, Tralee, is a colorful enclave known for its ties to numerous historic events during the Irish Civil War. If you visit in the end of August, make sure to check out The Rose of Tralee Festival (website).

After passing through Tralee, hop on the N22 and take that all the way into the splendid town of Killarney, which will be your base for visiting the Lakes, Killarney National Park and the Ring of Kerry.