A vibrant North American city with a historic French core, Montreal has something to offer even the most demanding of tourists. It is also a great introduction to French culture with terrific dining options and a real sense of history.

With four universities sprawled across its center, Montreal is a decidedly young town – which means there’s never a shortage of events to attend, from art festivals to concerts, and many of them are free. And where there are students, there are bargains, so good food can be had for very reasonable prices. Lodging is another matter entirely. High season kicks off with the Grand Prix Formula One race in June and lasts well into July, with the Just for Laughs comedy festival, so hotel rooms at these times are both scarce and expensive. A good alternative would be to stay in European-style bed and breakfasts, which are available all over the city, though most are a little off the beaten track.

Despite its large size, the city is made to be explored on foot, and Old Montreal (Vieux Montreal), where the first French missionaries put down roots, is an excellent starting point. Formerly a walled city, this area fell into disrepair as the business district moved away; thankfully, it was restored and beautified in the early 1990s. Now you can meander through the cobbled streets and narrow passages off St. Paul Street or stop for a coffee on the terrace of one of the many cafés in Place Jacques-Cartier. The silver-domed Bonsecours Market is a must-see. Canada’s one-time parliament turned Montreal City Hall turned market is now a thriving cultural center with many boutiques featuring local art and products.

If the summer heat – or winter cold – becomes unbearable, head into Notre Dame Cathedral where homegrown chanteuse Céline Dion held her fairytale wedding. The gothic style basilica is actually the brainchild of New York architect James O’Donnell, hired in the early 1800 to upgrade the original seventeenth century chapel.

Museums abound in the historic district of Montreal, though most are much smaller than European museums and can be easily toured in under an hour. The ambitiously named Château Ramezay, once the residence of Montreal’s French governor, is really more of a manor, but it houses an impressive collection of Native Indian and Québec art and photographs. Afterwards grab a ‘Beaver tail’ – a fried dough snack dusted with sugar and cinnamon – and head down to the Old Port for a leisurely walk along the river.

Montreal derives its name from Mount Royal – Mont Réal in old French – the mountain that rises at its very heart. The smallish mountain is worth the trek year-round for an impressive view of the city. St. Joseph’s Oratory occupies the western slope of the mountain and, as the largest shrine in the world devoted to St. Joseph, is a stunning homage to his purported healing powers. Nearby is the picturesque campus of McGill University, one of the oldest universities in Canada.

For a feel of the real pulse of the city, go east towards St. Lawrence Boulevard and St. Denis Street. The two parallel streets run the length of the city and, between them, contain most of Montreal’s bars and nightclubs. Driving and parking along those streets is no mean feat, especially weekends, so you’re better off cabbing it or using public transportation when checking out Montreal’s nightlife.

Montreal’s upscale neighborhood, the Golden Square Mile is also worth a stroll. Some of the trendiest boutiques lie in the Victorian buildings along this part of Sherbrooke Street, as does Montreal’s Fine Arts Museum. Nearby Crescent Street is another nightlife hub, with the city’s best Irish pubs and chicest restaurants.

Since hardy Montrealers won’t let something like frigid temperatures stop them in their tracks, they’ve built an entire city underground. No trip to Montreal is complete without exploring the underground passages, lined with shops and restaurants that criss-cross the heart of downtown.