The quaint colonial city of Oaxaca is thoughtfully preserved and full of tradition. Its rich history, cultural heritage and terrific indigenous cuisine make it the perfect destination for a visit, as does its proximity to nearby villages full of artisans fashioning unique crafts.

By turns picturesque and pedestrian, full of life and oddly deserted, Oaxaca is a surprising and rewarding destination for visitors. The city is at the center of many things Mexican – food, history and crafts being at the top of the list. Unfortunately, in late 2006, it was also at the center of a violent series of protests that resulted in a government crackdown. Thankfully order was quickly restored and visitors are now venturing back.

Set in a valley amidst some of Mexico’s most famous centers of art, as well as artisanal black pottery, woodcraft, weaving and silver jewelry, the town is well located for a stay that includes out-of-town trips to the spectacular ruins of Monte Alban, the Ocotlan market and more. Oaxaca itself is eminently walkable, with several pedestrian zones to facilitate movement given the extremely narrow sidewalks. The town is made for rambling, with tons of shops, galleries, markets and churches to visit. The best strategy is just to take a few days to explore.

The main area of interest for visitors is fairly compact, centered around the primarily pedestrian street of Macedonio Alcala that leads from the Santo Domingo Church down to the Cathedral and the Zocalo, or town square. The Cathedral, started in the 16th Century, sits on Plaza de la Independencia adjacent to the Zocalo. It has a distinct Gothic façade with carved figures and two towers. Inside the room bursts with color, highlighted by the large gold altar.

The center of town is the lovely Zocalo, beautifully restored and brimming with people. Surrounded by restaurants and cafes, its energy seems to draw you down the narrow streets. The leafy plaza has plenty of seating and is the central gathering point for Oaxacans in the evening. The requisite bands are playing and vendors with everything from treats to balloons circle the park plying their trade.

Nearby is the Rufino Tamayo Museum (Av. Morelos 503) which houses the collection of pre-Hispanic art amassed by the artist over a 20 year period. Open Wednesday – Monday, closed Tuesday.

Taking Alcala north, what locals call the Andado Touristico, leads you to the Santo Domingo Church. On the way, you will pass Plaza Labastida, which hosts a variety of local craftsman, artisans, musicians and food stands in a small rectangular plaza. The area has a host of giftshops and antique stores, the best being Plata de Oaxaca y Antiguedades (Abasolo 107) which rambles over several rooms and has everything from jewelry to old telephones.

The most important church in Oaxaca is undoubtedly the imposing Santo Domingo Church, founded by Dominicans in 1572. Similar on the exterior to the Cathedral, inside the church is a lavish interior with intricate ceiling details. Next door, housed in the former monastery, is the Cultural Center of Santo Domingo. The center houses a museum focusing on pre-Columbian artifacts including pieces from Tomb 7 on Monte Alban. The multiple courtyards of the complex have been turned into gardens. Open Tuesday to Sunday from 10am – 7:45pm. Admission about $4.

While Oaxaca is an interesting destination with plenty to see and do, there is a lot more to explore outside the city. The city is a great jumping off point, especially for the impressive Monte Alban site sitting on a hill just to the west.