Cities like Mexico City are amazing not so much for what they are today, but rather for what lies beneath them. The city is built on the ruins of an empire yet it bustles with such activity that it barely seems to acknowledge its own fascinating, yet tragic, history.

A short flight from much of the U.S., Mexico City (DF to locals) is just now appearing on travelers’ radar. Though it has a lingering reputation as a corrupt, dangerous and polluted place, Mexico City has more than enough to offer to travelers looking for art, history and great food.

The first impression is overwhelming – the city sprawls in every direction with throngs of people at seemingly every turn. Charming and charmless, overpopulated and eerily quiet, it is definitely a place that takes some getting used to. But once you get your bearings, the city proves to be navigable, friendly and inexpensive thanks to a favorable exchange rate.

Downtown Mexico City has a certain elegance, thanks to a European layout in many areas with wide boulevards and large parks. Of course, the layout only makes sense in the context of one of history’s great tragedies, when the city was built on a lake by the highly advanced Aztecs only to be destroyed by Spanish invaders in the 15^th Century and rebuilt in European fashion. The Mexicans are still excavating the one major remnant of their past glory in the city, the Templo Mayor just off the Zócalo, or main square.

Mexico City can roughly be divided into places you would visit and places you would traverse. The main tourist attractions are in the Centro Histórico, including the Templo Mayor, Zócalo, Cathedral and the leafy Alameda Park. Unlike zócalos in other Mexican cities, the one in Mexico City is a large square devoid of trees and cafes and is not a place to linger. Instead, cross through it and pop into the Spanish Baroque Cathedral, built in the 17^th Century, to marvel at the gorgeous ornate altar.

Then head to Templo Mayor (enter at via Calle Seminario) and its accompanying museum for a comprehensive background on the history of Aztec empire. Walking through the partially excavated temple gives you a glimpse into how the civilization evolved, but only after seeing the artifacts in the museum will you begin to understand what was lost. Afterwards, walk down Francisco Madero or 5 de Mayo to the Palacio de Bellas Artes, which houses a museum and theater with famous murals from Diego Rivera and Rufino Tamayo. Past the Palacio is the picturesque Alameda Park. On the south side of the park is a monument to Benito Juárez with an angel holding aloft the Mexican Constitution.

To the north of the Centro Histórico is Polanco, the swanky section of the city. This area is lined with a mindboggling array of high-end boutiques and restaurants. Nearby Chapultepec holds an immense park that houses everything from an amusement park to museums to the Presidential residence. The castle on a hill is the centerpiece of the park but the cool forest and lakes make the area a favorite stroll for Mexicans. Here you will find the Modern Art Museum (Museo de Arte Moderno) featuring works from the great Mexican artists of the 20^th Century. Nearby is the fantastic Museum of Anthropology (Museo de Antropología).

To the south are quieter leafy neighborhoods like Condesa and Coyoacan. Coyoacan is best known as home to artists Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera. Their house there has been turned into the lovely Frida Kahlo museum complete with a large outdoor garden. However, be aware that the museum itself is a very long walk from the nearest metro station, and a taxi ride is advised. The neighborhood, a former suburb of the city, is stately and quiet, with its beautiful houses giving it the feeling of a small town. Small churches abound and the main park, Viveros Garden, is large and peaceful.

Mexico City reveals itself only after days of visits. Not quite a tourist center, the city has much to offer if you are prepared to deal with some minor inconveniences such as congestion and lack of spoken English. The rewards, especially for history and art buffs, will be well worth it.