While the dollar may not go very far in other parts of Europe, Athens is a relative bargain and more than lives up to the sense of history. It’s always a good idea to visit cities that have recently hosted the Olympics as they tend to have been spruced up and have lots of cultural additions. Athens is a prime example of the good things that will continue to happen even post-Olympics. For example, hotels are modern and in the off-season, supply outstrips demand, making for tourist-friendly prices.

The city is fairly straightforward and eminently walkable, especially the area at the base of the Acropolis called Plaka, though its narrow sidewalks will try your patience when crowded. Famously steeped in history, Athens is not particularly picturesque in the way that Americans usually view European cities, as it was destroyed several times over throughout the centuries by warring parties. Unfortunately, that means little has been preserved outside the archaeological sites. But what sites they are, spectacular enough to overcome the doubts even of non-history buffs. Just make sure you don’t try to navigate them in the midday summer sun. Athenians still follow the midday break (roughly 2pm to 5pm) that other countries have let go of and for good reason. Do what Athenians do and drop into a taverna, get some lunch and then find a good café to hang out in until things cool off.

The most famous sight is undoubtedly the Acropolis hill, with the instantly recognizable Parthenon. You won’t be able to avoid the crowds, especially on the ascent, unless you go very early in the morning. But once you’re on the hill and past the entrance construction, you will have some breathing room. Cranes are an inevitable part of the site, their presence all the more tragic due to repeated failures at renovation and stabilization. You can’t help wondering if they have finally figured it out or will wind up doing more damage. Some time in early 2009, the long-delayed New Acropolis Museum will open across the way and it promises to be spectacular.

A lesser known but equally impressive sight is the Ancient Agora, a former market and political center that sprawls over many acres. Topping one hill is the well-preserved Temple of Hephaestus, which is definitely worth the short climb. From there, you can see the ruins of Hadrian’s Library and the eight-sided Tower of the Winds. Keramikos is essentially a cemetery and slightly away from other sights, but the small museum of artifacts is interesting. The Temple of Olympian Zeus, now reduced to a series of giant columns, and Hadrian’s Arch lie across from the National Gardens and Plaka.

Outside the historic zone, several neighborhoods are worth exploring. Most notable is upscale Kolonaki, which sprawls along hills and offers sometimes challenging climbs. The area is very busy and full of upscale clothing and jewelry boutiques, as well as cafes. Gazi, to the west of the center, is the new “it” neighborhood with some hot restaurants, but still up and coming. Nearby Psyrri is sleepy during the day but a bustling evening destination for bar hopping and restaurants.

Just west of Keramikos and surrounded by Gazi is Technopolis, a former gas factory that hosts a variety of art exhibitions and other events. Curiously, much more can be done at the sprawling site than what is being done now, at least in the daytime. Check before venturing over, as there is not much else in the area except the Benaki Museum, a snazzy space hosting temporary exhibitions. Be forewarned that if you do trek to this branch of the Benaki, it is a long walk away from Technopolis over broken sidewalks. Another curiosity is the Melina Mercouri cultural center (no admission fee), with its re-created 19^th century Athens on the second floor and revolving contemporary art showcase. If you’re passing by and it is open, it’s worth a look.