| Beirut |
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| By Cherine Yazbeck & Carole Corm | ||||||||
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Beirut is a stylish, dynamic city that has made incredible strides since its ruinous civil war. Now rebuilt and buzzing with life, the city and its people are eager to welcome visitors to experience the "Paris of the Middle East."
Downtown, also known as Centre Ville, is the heart of historical Beirut and any visit should start here. One of the city's oldest buildings, the Great Mosque Al Omari replaced the Church of St. John the Baptist of the Knights Hospitalers in 1291 when the Mamlukes ousted the Crusaders and turned the cathedral into a major mosque. The Mosque of Emir Assaf dates from 1572 and was completed by Emir Mansour Assaf in 1580. The Mosque of Emir Mounzer houses an original fountain and was erected in 1620. Built in the middle of the 19th century, The Mosque Al-Majidiiyeh was named after the Ottoman Sultan Abdul-Majid (1839-1861). Constructed by the Ottomans as a military barracks on Serail Hill, the 1853 Grand Serail today houses Lebanon's Prime Minister's offices. Facing the Serail is the former Ottoman Military Hospital built in 1860. Nowadays, the CDR (Council of Development and Reconstruction) has its offices in this sprawling building.
Saïfi Village, also known as the Le Quartier des Arts, was completely rebuilt after the Civil War and today hosts many art galleries and upscale shopping boutiques. The clusters of galleries and trendy boutiques, create a village-like district ideal for browsing. On Saturday mornings, you can explore the Souk al Tayeb, a farmer's market dedicated to local, artisanal products. Hamra is an easy location to explore thanks to the centralized core of Rue Hamra (Hamra Street). The area, built during Lebanon's heyday in the 50s and 60s, today hosts a large number of bars, eateries, cafés and retail shops, whereas formerly it was known as the center of Beirut's intellectual life. It has a handful of hotels ranging from budget to high-end. In the vicinity of Bliss Street, you'll find students mainly from the famous American University of Beirut, whereas towards Verdun, home to several commercial centers, you might bump into well-to-do Lebanese or Saudi shoppers. The Sanayeh Garden is one of the few green spots in Beirut to sit down or take a stroll. Zokak el Blat, Wat Wat and Basta form an interesting and authentic neighborhood with landmark old Beirut mansions. Basta is renowned for its antique and retro retail shops. Here you will find appealing promenade to sense the liveliness of hectic Beirut. Built at the turn of the century outside the city walls by wealthy Greek Orthodox families in search of greenery and sprawling views of the sea, Achrafieh is perched on a hill and forms the eastern edge of Beirut's center. Most of the city's famed nightlife is located here: Gemmayze's many bars, as well as Monot Street which lately has swapped its lively nightlife for a more residential feel, great for a quiet dinner or a glass of wine. Achrafieh is also home to the bustling ABC mall, a major retail center with over 200 stores, as well as Saint Joseph University. Gemmayze enjoys a real village-like atmosphere with tiny spice shops and grocery shops; though these days it's struggling to keep up with its newly hip status. Indeed, bars and restaurants are rapidly replacing old shops turning the area into Beirut's main nightlife spot. Rue Gouraud is lined with several venues while Rue Sursock and Rue Abdel Wahab El Inglizi give visitors an idea of the old glamour of East Beirut with landmark houses such as Lady Cochrane's Villa, very close to the popular Sursock Museum. Borj Hammoud is the Armenian district par excellence. After being expelled from their historic homeland by the Ottomans in the late 1800s and early 1900s, Armenian refugees arrived in Badawi (Corniche Al Nahr) and Borj Hammoud. With its specialized shops and eateries, the area still has a distinct Armenian feel to it.
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In the middle of the Place de l'Etoile, facing the Parliament, is the Ottoman Clock Tower, designed by Youssef Aftimos and dating back to 1897. Near the roundabout, several cafés and shops create a thriving atmosphere year-round, ideal for drinking Turkish coffee and people watching. On a sunny day, as well as religious holidays, the cobbled streets are usually filled with locals and visitors. The Martyrs' Square, or El Borj , features a statue in tribute to Lebanese nationalists who rebelled against the Turks and were hanged on the square on May 6, 1916. Nearby at Nejmeh Square, Saint-Georges' Greek Orthodox Cathedral is the oldest church in the city, built in 1767 on the remains of Byzantine and Crusader structures. The Roman Baths are well preserved ruins that also provide a respite from a day of walking.