Beijing is an achievement of delicate balance in motion: it retains the full range and richness of one of the world's most significant historical-cultural powerhouses, while pushing the envelope with rapid advances and stunning world-class architecture.

Beijing is a unique place - emblematic of the quandaries of modern China. Full of stunning historical landmarks and striking modern design, Beijing is clearly still a city trying to balance history and modernity. While pollution and security are both exceedingly heavy, these won't be overly disruptive for the ordinary traveler passing through.

Thanks to the XXIX Olympiad, English-speaking travelers have it easier than ever before, with English signage, standardized menus and a certain jaded familiarity with foreigners. But sadly, these advances also represent a vanishing insularity, a dilution of Chinese-ness.

For travelers, a first visit can be dizzying. Iconic images from China's rich, tragic history - the labyrinthine Forbidden City, cinematic Great Wall, lively street markets with their occasional shop(s) of horrors (scorpions on a stick, candied locusts), narrow hutongs, pavilions and palaces rising into the city smog, the militaristic void of Tiananmen Square, weirdly mesmerizing Peking Opera - sit in dizzying contrast to 21^stCentury structures that are now household names - the "Bird's Nest," the Water Cube, and, to a lesser extent, the Egg (National Theater).

Orienting yourself to Beijing isn't hard: The Forbidden City forms the center, with the city radiating outward in a series of nested "ring roads." Just south of the Forbidden City is the famous (or infamous) Tiananmen Square and Chairman Mao's Memorial museum. To the east is the burgeoning business district of Wangfujing. To the west: a series of lakes that are lovely, but  increasingly congested. To the North is the now-familiar Olympic Green.

This orientation makes sense: The Forbidden City is also the city's historic and cultural heart. The home of Chinese emperors for five centuries, the complex was threatened during both the World War II and the Cultural Revolution, but now stands as an impressive testament to an empire's awesome power. Inside, the grandeur is palpable and impressive. Cross the moat and enter at the southernmost Meridian Gate, then head through the Gate of Amiability to the Gate of Supreme Harmony in the Outer Court where official ceremonies took place. The Gate of Heavenly Purity leads to the Inner Court. Beyond, explore the private residence and garden of the imperial family. Many of the palaces have been converted to galleries though the original character is retained. Alternately, enter at the Gate of Divine Prowess, the northern gate, and you can do the tour in reverse, with the Inner Court followed by the Outer Court. While you can do the tour in a couple of hours, plan to reserve at least half a day for exploring.

Just west of the Forbidden City and spreading north are a series of lakes ringed by parks and willow trees - Nanhai ("south lake), Zhonghai ("center lake"), Beihai ("north lake") and Houhai ("back lake"). Near Houhai is the Drum Tower; climb to the top for rewarding city views. Find your way back to the Silver Ingot Bridge, a white marble bridge that divides Houhai from Qianhai ("front lake"). Cross the bridge and turn right onto Hou Hai Nanyan. Nearby, at Liuyin Jie 17, is Prince Gong's Mansion (Gong Wang Fu), the former home for a Qing dynasty emperor, which has been closed for renovations for over two years and newly open to the public. The house and grounds are extensive, although not entirely accessible (Heshen's pleasure palace is closed off). You can opt to pay for a guide and a performance of opera performance ($8) or just regular admission ($3).

The Central Business District in Beijing has experienced an Olympic-sized boom with the new additions of the World Trade Center and Yintai Center. Here, towering office buildings and sparkling shopping centers line wide avenues. If you want to shop for luxury goods, you can hit Oriental Plaza or Shanghai Tang at Yintai Center (Website).

For a quick snack, visit Wangfujing Xiao Chi Jie ("Snack Street"), close to the Oriental Center. Enjoy good cheap food from all over China - dishes are generally $1- $5.

Further afield is the Dashanzi 798 Art District, centered around former factories now converted to art galleries and boutiques. Take a taxi to Jiuxianqiao Lu, near the Dazhong Electronics Market then cross over Jiuxianqiao Lu, passing the market to hit the district.

You will come across Long March Space (Jiuxianqiao Lu no. 4, Website), a rambling gallery with multiple rooms and a fun sensibility. Exhibitions run the gamut from videos, sculptures and paintings, to commercial art forms - media, magazines, BMW art cars. Leaving Long March Space, turn right and take another right at the next intersection. Mid-block, up a flight of red stairs, is Chinese Contemporary (Website). The focus of this small but significant gallery is on fresh and established mainland artists with ardent, often political messages. The roster includes everything from avant-garde (Huang Rui) to political pop (Wang Guangyi) to performance stuntsmen (Zhu Ming) to iconic realists (Zhang Xiaogang). At the end of the lane is Time Zone 8 (Website), a well-stocked bookstore run by Beijing expat collector Robert Bernell. Order a cappuccino and browse through the art books.

Cross Jiuxianqiao no. 4 and turn left. You'll see a hulking, former factory on the right side: Factory 798. The factory is the nexus of the area, with several boutiques and galleries inside. 798 Photo Gallery (Website) is a large gallery showcasing photographs, while 798 Space (Website) is one of Dashanzi's largest galleries, a yawning concrete space with red writing on the walls. In the back of the gallery is a small bookshop, leading to the Old Factory Café.