Latest City Guides
| Seoul |
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| By Matt Murrie | |||||||||
After spearheading Korea’s rapid ascent to one of the wealthiest countries in the world by virtue of its auto and technology sectors, Seoul is placing new focus on becoming a world-renowned tourist destination. The concerted effort to cater to more than just business travelers means that now is the time to take advantage of all Seoul has to offer before it becomes too well-worn by the tourist trail. Just like its inhabitants, Seoul is a contrast in styles. While it is enormously sprawled out over two sides of the Han River, it is still navigable by foot. Perhaps the best starting location for a stay in Seoul is around City Hall. From here, it is a quick walk north to the Gyeongbokgung, Changdeokgung, and Gyeonghuigung palaces, which are all grouped together. If you take these sites in order from west to east, then the serene park surrounding the Gyeonghuigung Palace is the ideal place to reflect and relax after a morning of palatial exploration.
As a modern city, Seoul has more to offer than just glimpses at the past. Again, with City Hall as the center of one’s travels in Seoul, it is only a matter of choosing what one is in the mood for and then following one’s compass. If it is a peaceful stroll along a revitalized river, complete with neon lights and faux-ancient bridges, then head east to the Cheonggyecheon stream. This stream, older than the city itself, was completely covered by a highway overpass in 1971 but was set free again in 2005. It is now a top spot for locals and visitors alike to walk and wonder. As a result of its renewed vitality, the old auto part shops that line its banks—many so small they only sell one type of part—are being replaced by chain restaurants and theme bars just as swiftly as the stream’s artificial current. If your compass spins southeast, then it is shopping you will find. Whether you prefer indoor, multi-storied shopping malls or shoulder to shoulder, heel to toe, outdoor window shopping, Myeong-dong has you covered. This district is full of popular brands from Nike and Adidas to Dolce & Gabbana and there are several great places to eat here as well. If due south is your destination, then you will be embarking on all the adventures of Namsan Park. In addition to several hiking trails, there is a traditional, Namsangol Hanok Village which is a great place for pictures. But few pictures will compare to what you take after riding the cable car up to the top of the mountain. There, at 777ft, stands N Seoul Tower. The tower has four observation decks, the fourth of which is a revolving restaurant. Finally, if your feet still have it in them, then they may lead you west. In this direction lies Hongdae, the hub for nightclubs in Seoul. Here there are several vintage and specialty shops to check out during the day, but at night, the area is overrun with club goers on their way to and from the many clubs pulsating at or just below the surface of the sidewalk. The clubs range from the simple to the seedy to extravagant; but they are all loud and they will stay open until the sun tells them to close. The Seoul of today is vast in size and substance and, for those willing to experiment, a place of unending possibilities. It is sure to keep you on your toes both visually and contemplatively. Whether it is wondering down tapered side streets beneath the dazzling lights of a neon circus above or crossing city streets wide enough to drive a tank down, Seoul’s identity can be hard to understand or ignored: is it the television screen as big as a bus suspended against the skyline or the shrine the size of a McDonald’s sitting on the corner? Whatever Seoul is, it will surely be quick to impress and slow to dissolve.
What Seoul Is Seoul is a lens through which to enjoy an uncorrupted view of a history and culture rarely understood or appreciated in the West. Situated between China and Japan, Korea is often overlooked by travelers, yet its capital city has done its share to showcase the marvels of this culture. Seoul is a large urban area with all of the pomp and circumstance of a leading, global city, but without all of the hubbub of a major tourist destination. While it is not unusual to see foreigners in Seoul, it is out of the ordinary to see any that aren’t teachers, military personnel or there on business. Seoul is a place to get experimental when it comes to eating and drinking. If you like the taste of garlic and spicy red pepper, you will be delighted by how many different combinations can be made with these ingredients serving as the base. With food relatively inexpensive, Seoul is a great place to take a “point and try” approach. Moreover, serving sizes tend to be small by Western standards, so there is not much to lose if you choose something not to your liking. This “point and try” approach works well with alcohol too; there are so many different types of alcohol, it would be impossible to list or try them all. Do try to branch out beyond the standard beer or soju staples. The milky, workman’s drink, makgeolli is a good place to start in exploring the uniqueness of Korean alcohol.
Seoul is not a place to encounter typical Western ideas of politeness. Understand that you will be pushed, shoved, bumped into, and/or cut off by pedestrians, cars, buses, and motorbikes while you are here. Seoul is not a serious contender for any good driver citations. No amount of warnings can prepare you for the state of driving in this city: driving on sidewalks, running red lights, driving without headlights on, running curbs—buses, taxis, delivery trucks, police, and civilians—you name it: if it is potentially dangerous, Seoul drivers will do it. Be aware, be very aware. Seoul is not a compact city. While Seoul’s public transportation is first-rate, it does sprawl: be prepared to walk. Even though most of the must-see sites are relatively clustered together, there can still be a considerable amount of walking involved. Practicalities Time to Visit: One’s impression of Seoul can be greatly influenced by the weather. Korea has five distinct seasons: Winter, Spring, Monsoon, Summer, and Fall. In order to maximize the amount of time you can comfortably spend outdoors, it is recommended that you travel during the Spring (March-June) or Fall (late September-early December). Otherwise, you could get caught in a snowstorm, 24 hour thunderstorm, or sauna-like heat and humidity for your entire trip. A heads up on the monsoon season: there is some variation each year, but rains typically begin around mid to late June and pick up to a steady downpour until the end of July. Aside from the weather considerations, Seoul can be accessed pretty much year round; shops and attractions stay open seven days a week with the exception of a day or two following Lunar New Year (revolving, but generally sometime in February) and Cheosuk (revolving, but generally around the end of September, or early October). Currency: Won Tipping: Tipping is not the custom in Seoul, nor is it part of the bill. Unfortunately, this fact is often reflected in the service you receive while dining. In most cases, including the familiar chain restaurants, your table will not have its own server. Instead, you will be served by whomever is standing closest to your table. So don’t be afraid to call over the first server you make eye contact with. It is not customary to tip during taxi rides either. Of course, if you offer a tip, the driver will surely take it. Otherwise, pay the exact amount listed on the meter. Language: It may seem like a bit of a paradox that Koreans spend so much time and money taking English classes, yet so little English is spoken. However, understanding the Korean mentality toward learning might allow you more access to more English explanations and answers. Typically, Koreans do not want to say or try anything unless they believe they have perfected it. Therefore, even though they might be able to answer your question in a way you could understand it—or even conversant to the degree you could chat over coffee—they might shake you off instinctively as if they have no knowledge of English. Perhaps the best approach is to take it slow by addressing them with a simple greeting they can understand and reply to such as, “Hello, how are you?” To which they will most assuredly reply, “Fine, thank you.” From there, if you speak in a slow, encouraging voice, there is a better than average chance they will provide you with the answer you seek. As far as the major tourist areas go, though, staff tend to be fluent in English. Transport: The subway system in Seoul is cheap and comprehensive; but be sure to save your ticket! You need to feed it back through another turnstile in order to exit. The cost of a single ride varies according to distance. The basic fare is about a dollar (one way) for a distance of six miles. It goes up an additional ten cents for each additional three miles. Officially, the trains run from 5 am to 1 am Monday-Saturday and 5:30 am-12:30 am on Sundays and Holidays. However, trains must reach their final destination by 12:30am or 1am, so the actual, “last train” at most stations tends to depart around 11:30pm. The subway system’s Korean and English, and some trains even announce stops and the side of the train to exit in English. coverage is very good in terms of tourist spots. It should be noted, though, that a single stop can have from 4-14 exits. Check the conveniently posted maps displaying where each exit takes you before leaving the station. The system is pretty foreigner-friendly; all signs are posted in Taxis are another fine option. They are inexpensive and accustomed to ferrying foreigners around. They are also equipped with meters so you always know exactly how much you are to pay. Beware of the traffic during weekday rush hours; things can grind to a standstill. If you are traveling between 8-9 am or 5-7 pm, you might want to forgo the cab for a train. If you plan on moving around a lot, perhaps your best option is to buy a Seoul City Pass. For about $15 a day, this card allows you up to 20 rides on the subway or city bus. It also allows you to hop on the Seoul City Tour Bus which makes a continuous loop around the major tourist and shopping sites in the city. However, the Seoul City Tour Bus does not operate on Mondays. Immigration: Americans and EU citizens do not need visas to visit
When the weather is not cooperating, or if your feet need a breather, you can still see the city in style. The various City Bus Tours will scoot you around quickly. If time permits, a quick bus tour could provide one with a better idea of what sites look to be worth exploring in more detail and which are better left to the postcards. Visit here for more information on the City Bus Tours. Free walking tours are given by guides fluent in English everyday of the week. For more information on the tours available, check out their website. As long as same-sex public nudity does not daunt you, saunas can be a great way to relax and soak in a bit of the culture for around $4-10 dollars. Save your receipts to get money back on the V.A.T. (Value Added Tax) at the end of your trip. Where to Stay Editor’s pick: Hotel Ibis Myeong-dong is located in the heart of one of one of Seoul’s most exciting shopping districts. A restaurant, sauna and gym are a few of its many amenities. In terms of price and location, Hotel Ibis is hard to beat. Rates from $89 - 140. Best Western New Seoul Hotel is a straightforward, centrally located hotel with a restaurant, bar, and sauna. Rates from $100 for standard rooms. For a something a little different, you could try staying at one of the many saunas. For the standard price of admission ($4-10), not only do you get access to all of the facilities, but you get shorts and a t-shirt and are allowed to sleep overnight. Typically, you will be sleeping on the floor, but you will be steps away from a refreshing soak and steam in the morning. For a more luxurious sauna experience, you can head over to Hotel Prima. While the hotel is on the pricey side, you can stay overnight at their sauna for under $30. There, they have a special room with soft mats to sleep on.
In Korea, both eating and drinking are considered highly social activities. Not only is it unusual to see a Korean eating out or drinking alone, some places will not even serve individual customers. This is not out of rudeness. At several traditional restaurants, the food is cooked in a large pot, or on a grill situated inside the table, thus making the smallest possible serving size enough for two. While the exotic looking pictures or colorful, plastic displays of food might appear daunting at first, eating in Seoul might generate the greatest amount of stories to bring back home. Even if you’re not up to trying the notoriously lethal blowfish, or the equally deadly, live octopus (Yes, nearly every year, reports surface about an inebriated man falling victim to an octopus whose will to live was stronger than he could swallow.), there are plenty of foods about which one could brave and brag. For starters, one could try any number of the seafood based or meat based stews. While the ingredients might not be overly exotic to a neophyte of Korean cuisine, the level of spiciness is sure to leave one with something to boast about. Koreans love their food hot—both in temperature and in taste, so be careful with your first bite! Aside from the familiar, chain restaurants, it might be difficult to find a restaurant serving traditional, Korean food and being able to explain it in English. But don’t let this become an obstacle to trying something new. Most restaurants do have pictures in their menus and/or plastic displays outside. For a true taste of Korean history, try a bowl of budae jjigae. Slivers of hot dogs and wedges of spam are only two of the myriad ingredients that go into budae jjigae: onions, mushrooms, potatoes, Chinese cabbage, ground beef, scallions, garlic, beans, chunks of tofu, peppers, ramen noodles, a slice of American cheese, and, of course, kimchi and gochujang (the ubiquitous, Korean chili paste) all contribute in culinary harmony to form, budae jjigae. But if that sounds more like a list of scraps from an industrial cafeteria than a national dish, it is because it is not far off from the truth. Unlike most dishes, buddae jjigae’s eclectic ingredients are not by design; rather, they have been brewed together out of necessity. In the years during and following the Korean War, food—particularly meat—was scarce. With nowhere else to go, people turned to the several U.S. Army bases that had been established. There, they took whatever odds and ends they could find or were being thrown out by the mess hall cooks. These random, surplus snippets live on as the curious mixture of food and history that constitutes budae jjigae. While eating and learning about budae jjigae might provide a visitor to Korea with a meal he or she will always remember, among Koreans, its distinct origin is even harder to forget: translated, budae jjigae means “army base stew.” If it is only a snack you are after, Seoul is packed with temporary serving tents along most roads. These orange tarped tents offer good food at reasonable prices. The foods served can range from corndogs to dumplings to chicken patties on a stick. But if you are in the mood for a “real” Korean snack, try ordering a bowl of tteokbokki. This simple dish consists of tubular rice cakes broiled together with spicy red paste, meat, strips of fish cakes, and eggs. It is a quick, inexpensive snack that is perfectly suited to hold one over while exploring Seoul by foot. As with many aspects of Seoul and Korean life, drinking habits can be both acute and highly customized. In spite of what may seem to Western eyes as forestalling characteristics, Koreans still manage to drink to great excess. And the range of drinking options reflects this. While Korean beer might be considered passable at best, several foreign beers and wines are available at most establishments. Another option would be to try one of Korea’s traditional liquors. Perhaps the most ubiquitous drink in all of Korea is soju. Regardless of brand, soju is typically found in a short, green bottle and drunk out of a shot glass. This inexpensive liquor runs about 20% alcohol by volume and can be thought of as a sweeter version of vodka. While its taste might belie its fortitude at first, it does pack a wallop if one is not careful—both the night of and morning after imbibing. Sights Gyeongbokgung Palace, built in 1394, this palace is one of the most lasting architectural ruminants of the Joseon Dynasty. Parts of the palace were burnt during the Japanese invasions of 1592-1598; portions of it are still being reconstructed to this day. Changdeokgung Palace, the old marketplace and seat of government. Gyeonghuigung Palace, just east of Gyeongbokgung Palace, this palace is located in a sprawling park and is a registered UNESCO World Heritage Site. Bukchon Traditional Village, a preserved quarter of the Korea of yesteryear. Wander the streets and alleys of shops and residents constructed in the style of traditional Korean architecture. Here, you can also take a number of classes or workshops dedicated to Korean foods and customs. In this neighborhood, you can enroll in Korean cultural workshops or even lodge in a traditional Korean home. Myeong-dong, an enticing sprawl of neon lit shops and restaurants is a great place to go with no other purpose than to get lost and breathe in the chaos. National Museum of Korea, opened in 2005, is the largest museum in Asia and the sixth largest in the world. The museum hosts everything from archaeological artifacts to fine art and hosts regular exhibitions from around the world.
For residents of Seoul, the shopping Mecca is most likely COEX Mall. With over 85,000 square meters of space, COEX is home to a range of restaurants from pizza by the slice to fine dining on the 52nd floor of the of the Trade Tower that shoots up from the underground mall. The mall’s shops are typical of those found at most suburban, American malls, while the stores in the adjoining Hyundai Department store hedge to more luxurious labels. If high-class shopping—or the thrill of it anyway—is what you are after, then head just south of the Han River to the Apgujeong district. Here, you can either check out the Galleria Mall or kick along the narrow streets lined with spa centers, plastic surgery clinics, coffee houses, galleries and boutiques. At the end of it all, you can even have your picture taken under the arching, neon “Rodeo Street” sign.
Gochujang, the peppery red paste that serves as the base for virtually all Korean foods. If you are adventurous enough to indulge in the local cuisine, you will come to miss this flavor. You can pick up your own little, red tub or tube at nearly any store. Dukbaegi are the black bowls most soups and stews come in. Not only can you use them to cook your food in, but they keep your food hot while you eat it. Red Ginseng products can be found at several of the larger department stores, as well as many convenient stores. Revered for its energy inducing, stamina strengthening properties, one can find it in many forms, from hard candy to hard liquor. |
Once rejuvenated from the gardens, it is a short walk either south to the Insadong neighborhood or a little farther north to the Bukchon village. Either direction will take you deeper into the core of Korean culture. While Insadong is a pedestrian street lined with traditional shops, restaurants, and artisan stands, Bukchon is the only swatch of Seoul in which both skyscrapers and Starbucks have been denied access. Here, there are attractions designed for the tourist—from traditional tea houses, cultural workshops, and museums of everything from embroidery to Korean Buddhist art—but the preeminent appeal is to observe mundane, daily activities against the backdrop of the single level, wood-framed, clay shingled homes and buildings that envelop all who wander the narrow streets of Bukchon.
