Arbois, France Print E-mail
By Michael Tulipan   
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Arbois

Surrounded by rolling hills full of vineyards, the medieval town of Arbois, France lives and breathes wine. Here, visitors can immerse themselves in the famous wines of the Jura region or explore the history of the town's most famous resident, Louis Pasteur.


St Just churchVisiting Arbois

The town of Arbois is easily traversed on foot, with all its major sites within a ten minute walk. The Cuisance River, which originates in underground caves in the nearby mountains, flows through the town, giving it a bucolic feel. The town center is a small traffic circle with a 19th Century fountain at its center, ringed with small shops and tasting rooms beneath arched walkways.

Towering above it all is the St. Just Church, which is visible from miles away. Founded in the 11th Century, the St. Just Church is decidedly medieval in character, with the central nave dating back to the 12th Century. The wood roof was replaced in the 13th Century with a vaulted stone ceiling, which remains today, and the distinct tower rising above the city was built in 1528.

Arbois was home to Louis Pasteur for much of his life and a visit to his house, now a fascinating museum (83 rue de Courcelles, website), reveals not only the background behind his experiments but his importance to the development of winemaking and wine preservation. The house is full of interesting details including a dumbwaiter used to bring wine up from the cellar and beds made on rails so they could be pulled out and swept behind. Pasteur also planted grapes and the vineyards are still working today, now under the auspices of Henri Maire.

Louis Pasteur houseNearby is the Chateau Pecauld, which includes the 13th Century Tour Gloriette, both formerly part of the city's defenses. The Chateau was constructed between the 12th and 14th Centuries and has been renovated and converted into a wine museum by the Institute of the Wines of Jura. Vines surround the building, while inside exhibits focus on the region's winemaking techniques. Another small museum nearby is the Musée Sarret de Grozon (website), housed in a building owned by the Sarret Grozon family and bequeathed to the town.  Today it contains a collection of porcelain, furniture and paintings from the 17th and 19th Centuries.

Above the town in a box canyon is La Grotte des Planches (website), an underground cave that the Cuisance River flows through. Visitors can explore the cave on elevated walkways that take them over the river and past massive stalactites hanging from the ceiling. At points, peculiar giant "pot holes" are visible - circular cavities carved into the rock by the river.

Also nearby are the Saltworks at Salins-les Bains. This former salt mine has been designated a UNESCO World Heritage site and is now open for tours and includes a salt museum. The town is known for its Thermal Center, where you can take a salt bath or get spa treatments.